The big white one..

So, Saturday 18th August, day two, attempt two.  This time we started from Champex to avoid the difficult first section.  Conditions were better, the stable layer was still there at 2800-3000m and to get through it required a lot of patience and working small bubbles very close to the rocks, but we got through it early and managed to stay above it along the SE faces.  This time we all made it down to the south end, and just as we started climbing on the SE spur that leads up to the summit we could see a veritable armada of gliders all coming from the French side via the Col du Meage, attempting the same thing.  Luckily we were there first and I arrived with Tom and another identical glider (that I took to call 'Tom lookalike').  Tom was highest and had the first attempt to connect with the top part of the ridge, but was not successful.  It was extremely difficult to climb over 4000m but I managed to squeak out to about 4300m with the 'Tom lookalike' on a grey Icepeak 6, from here we pushed onto a rocky ridge that was soarable, and gradually worked our way up.  I was begining to get excited now, calling my altitudes on the radio, 4500m, then 4600m then 4700m...  In hindsight this was probably not that helpful to my friends scratching around below 4000m!  At 4750m we now had the really hard bit to do.  The ridge we'd just worked up was set back from the summit.  To get onto the windward side we'd need to push into wind round the side.  The icepeak lead the way, and seemed to get a bouyant line at first, but then started to get thrown around.  I follwed him and got drilled in sink with very little forward speed.  I watched him scrape onto the nose and start soaring up.  He'd made it, but I was not going to.  I wasn't prepared to take the risk so I turned back and dived for the relative safety of the soarable ridge.  I climbed again to 4750m, but couldn't get higher so I went for it.  I pushed the bar, but then hit severe turbulence and though better of it.  Once I was through that it calmed down and I was making progress with about 10kph forward speed.  Finally, after what seemed like an eternity I scraped round onto the spine where the main route up from the Goutier hut leads to the  summit.  Now I was in gloriously smooth lift waving to some mountaineers descending the summit, in an aerial elevator.  It was incredible. The view of the summit was fantastic.

The icepeak 6 had been soaring around all this time, but now he'd decided to head off without landing.  I almost did the same, it was awfully windy after all.  But then I figured I ought to at least have a look, so I put in big ears and did some low passes to see what it was like.  The wind was moderate and blowing along the summit ridge.  Just below the summit was a flattish area and this seemed to be the obvious place to land.  I came in a little low and nearly put down on the snow below, stopping myself just a foot from the ground and skimming away again.  I realised I needed to be in exactly the right place otherswise I risked sliding down the steep face with nothing to stop me.  A couple more attempts and I did it.  I'd just top landed Mt Blanc.

Immediately I was on the ground I realised it wasn't the best idea.  I'd landed where I wanted to be, but a little further back than I'd planned.  The net efect was the glider dropped down behind me already on the downslope.  It was flapping violently in the wind and trying to drag me.  I'd also been unlucky to hit a hard icy wind blown patch.  I hit the deck and dug my feet in as hard as I could whilst I hauled about 2m of brake line in.  Once I had the glider under control I was able to kick some foot holds in and bunch the wing up and cross the few meters to the well worn path before walking the last few meters to the summit itself.  I was on the summit ridge, but all on my own.  No one to celebrate with so the only photos I have on the summit are self portraits.

It was windy and cross the slope and I was worried about launching again, and about the wind picking up.  So I decided to not hang about but to take off.  Unfortunately it was heinously difficult.  I managed to find a flatter area with softer snow to get some purchase.  Nevertheless, because the wind was blowing along the ridge I had to have one tip up the slope and one down, and with only snow and ice below it would simply slide down the slope.  I tried all sorts of things, inflating from bunched up, digging holes in the snow to stuff the wing tip into to hold it in place so I could build a wall, but it all failed.  Every time I picked the wing up it would twist round or overfly me.  I was very tired with the effort and probably being heavy handed, but I was beginning to get seriously worried that I'd be walking down to the Goutier hut.  The main problem with launching was that a few meters in any direction and the slope got steeper, getting dragged off the side did not bear thinking about, so if it didn't come up exactly right I'd just dump the wing again and stay safe.  Finally after nearly an hour of this another group of wings made it up and suddenly there were paragliders all around me.  I wasn't alone any more, but I was actually willing them not to land for thier own sake.  At about the same time two Italian mountaineers arrived on the summit and I asked one if he'd mind holding the wing tip for me, which he duly did,  this will make it easier I thought, but no, I messed up two attempts and he obviously could not hang around as he was at the summit quite late as it was.  By now a few of the other pilots had started to top land, so I was no longer alone.  One very kind French pilot (who's name I never got - sorry for that) spent some time helping me sort out the wing.  It still took quite a few attempts, but finally I was off, back in the air.  I owe a huge debt of gratitude to that pilot, so if you are reading this, thank you.  I counted 4 other wings landed below me, and perhaps a 5th looked like he was lining up to land, so perhaps in total 6 of us did it today.  I watch as others now attempted to relaunch and struggled just as I had.  I hope they all made it off alright, whoever was the last was a brave soul.

So that was it, I soared around up to 4950m and took loads of photos before flying down and back to Champex by virtually the same route as yesterday, flying round the restricted zone, but this time along the middle of the valley.

I was exhausted, I'd spent about 1hour 25mins at the summit, and that was on top of having started the day by walking up to the Champex take off.  Still, what a day!  Although it is by no means the first time Mt Blanc has been top landed it is the first time it has ever been done by a Brit, so I'm rather chuffed!

Flying with tom Payne over the Col Ferret

The goal is in sight!

Finally in front and above the summit

On the top of Europe!

Back in the air again, Pascal Maillard on the black wing, and other pilots now on the summit

Looking down to the Aiguille Du Midi

Potrait with Mt Blanc behind

Tour du Mt blanc (again...)

The 17th and 18th looked likely to be possible days to attempt the now famous top landing of Mt Blanc.  Here is the first attempt on friday 17th...

We started from Verbier (just to add a bit more challenge) with a big group of pilots but the conditions were very stable and it took us over an hour just to reach Champex.  Pilots were starting from here too and I joined up with a green Omega 8 with whom I ended up flying much of the way with.  Once above Champex we were on our way finally, although we'd lost many good pilots on that initial stretch.  There was a stable layer at around 2800-3000m and we were not breaking throught it, finally just before the col ferret I managed to punch through to 3500m, enough to get over the col, but the time was getting on - we'd averaged less than 10kmph for this first section, as patience was the name of the game in the stable air.  Tom and some other wings were not lucky enough to get through the stable layer so now we were just two.  Once over the col things improved, with my new found friend on the green Omega we stumbled into a 3.5m/s thermal that propelled us up to 3900m.  Finally real flying!

The next section past Courmayer was straightforward, but I was worried how late we were.  At the corner of the Meage glacier I took the inside line up into the granite and ice whilst the Omega went round the front.  Unfortunately for him his route did not work and after a couple of attemps he ended up on the deck near the entrance to the tunnel du Mt Blanc.  I was now on my own. I'd connected with the south east spur meanwhile and worked my way up to over 4000m.  After a few attempts it was clear nothing was going higher, and that last 800m to the summit might well have been a few thousand.  I cut my losses and headed for the Col du Meage. I just scraped through and whooped my way out into the Chamonix valley.

 
The trouble is, the Mt blanc side of Chamonix valley is closed airspace in July and August so I had no option but to fly across to the SE faces of the Aiguille Rouge - but it was after 5pm and the sun and the wind were on the other side of them.  I climbed over Aiguillette Des Houches, then the Brevent, but then I was running out of options.  I was following the spine but could not go onto the back side (into the sun and wind) because of the nature reserve, so finally I took a deep breath, pointed across the valley at the ridge below Grand Montets (this is after the restricted zone) and prepared to be flushed into the valley.  Which I was.  When I reached the other side I was at a lowly 1800m and everything was still stable, I dribbled along this side of the chamonix valley, working ridge lift from the valley wind on the spines and working the occasional weak bubble for a few hundred meters. 

Steve and Emma called on the radio from Chamonix and told me they were there with a car if I needed it.  They then obviously got bored and told me they were going to the pub by the landing field.  I was low, hot and tired and getting out of Chamonix valley looked quite unlikely so this innocent radio comment represented rather strong 'ground suck' (or should that be 'pub suck'!)

Finally, I reached the end of the valley at the La Tour ski area but by now I was right down to 300m off the floor.  I scratched my way back up in the valley wind, found a small bubble to take me to the west facing ridge next to the col du Balme, which remarkably was soarable in the westerly wind that was now blowing.  I patiently soared up to 2700m, before plucking up the courage to dive over the col into the downward flushing air once again.  I took a bit more height on the next slope (soaring once again!) and now I just had a prolonged glide back into La Chable along the valley.  I expected the valley flow to be pushng me along and the slopes to be bouyant, but in reality the first part was very sinky, and I ended up having to use some late evening restitution on a tree covered slope which was into the valley wind in order to get round the corner back to La Chable, even so I didn't have the height to cross the village and land in the official landing, instead having to land in the last field just before the village.  This had it's advantages - it was nearer the pub where Tom, Quentin adn Martin were waiting!

In the end I was the only one who made it round but it was painfully slow, very technical and challenging at times.  In total it was 95km but in the unimaginably slow time of six and a half hours.

An Xtreme Day

Here is a bit of fun with Pringles Xtreme, our sponsors in last years X-Alps.  Huge thanks to Tom Payne and Quentin King...

Tour du Mont Blanc

Today I flew the classic 'Tour du Mont Blanc'.  Here are some photos from the day:

Self portrait flying along the SE faces from Champex - I'd left first but had expected the guys on comp wings to overtake me, but they didn't so I flew as far as Mont Blanc on my own (I can only assume they were enjoying the view too much!)

Looking back and down on the top cable car station above Courmayer.

The Col Du Meage (3400m) from about 1000m above it!

Mont Blanc in the background.  The plan was to attempt a summit landing but after getting there first at around 2pm, I 'only' managed to climb to 4600m, after some time above 4000m the altitude was affecting me and I had very cold hands so decided not to wait.  Later on, around 4pm, a number of pilots including Damien and Uli did top land.  Bravo guys!

Chamonix valley, looking vey, very small!

Heading back via the 'tiger route' round the top of the Trient glacier

Looking back at Sylvain D'Honneur showing quite how extreme the terrain was that we were crossing.

Looking back at Sylvain again - now heading back out to Champex

Thanks!

Normal life is gradually returning after the X-Alps and the post race recovery period.  Dad and I are starting to write up our adventures - more information to follow in due course.  In the mean time I just wanted to pass on my long overdue thanks:

Firstly to the fantastic support we had from equipment sponsors: 
Lyon Equipment in the UK provided a Petzl leighweight helmet, which was perfect for the race.
New Concept Sports in Geneva gave me discounted race shoes, but more than that, spent literally hours ensuring I had the right shoes and that they were a perfect fit, a process without which my feet would have been in a mess for sure.  As it was I was one of the few athletes in the race with feet largely unaffected by the pounding they recieved!  Thanks Laurent!
Suunto, as well as sponsoring the event, sponsored me with a training watch including foot pod and heart rate monitor, this together with the training plan from Frederic meant I was well prepared on the start line on July 17th.
High 5 provided all the sports nutrition products we could need, and then some.  Their 4:1 endurance formula kept me going day in, day out and their energy bars kept my calorie intake up between the multiple and massive meals I was eating each day.  Such great products definately helped me to keep going day after day.
Sup'Air, in Annecy made a fantastic harness (the 'Delight') which weighed in at less than 2kg and was just perfect in comfort and performance.  (They've now certified a slightly heavier version of the harness and should go into production soon if any one is interested).  They got a new reserve to me at short notice when I was not allowed to fly my 'small' one in the race - thanks guys for the great products and great service!
Ozone.  Above all I need to thank Ozone, for the fantastic lightweight M4.  The wing was perfect for this race, with excellent performance and ease of handling.  It was also much lighter than many other wings thanks to the great attention to detail from Ozone.  This wing really is superb.
Pringles Xtreme showed their confidence in me, and demonstrated that this race has widespread appeal and interest way beyond the paragliding community by supporting us with a team vehicle for both the race and a period prior to the race for training and preparation.  So much about this race is being well prepared and able to cope with extreme conditions that being able to live in some comfort during the race made all the rest much easier to deal with.  I'm certain that having the perfect support vehicle did give us an advantage over many of the other teams.  Thanks guys!

Secondly there are some key people I need to thank:
Firstly a thank you to everyone who followed the race, added comments to the guest book and generally wished me well.  The fact that thousands of people were following my progress kept me pretty motivated!  Also to all those who came out and met me on the course, offered me showers and food, walked with me or even those who just wanted a photo, it was always great to see people! 
Thanks to the X-Alps organising committee for organising a great race and to Christoph Weber, who as race director probably had less sleep during the race than we did.  He even had to put up with complaints from tired and irritable athletes, including me (sorry!). 
I need to say a VERY big thank you to Tom Payne, who helped me get prepared for this race, offered advise and the loan of endless bits of kit from via ferrata connectors to heel lifts!  Moreover, he kept me positive throughout the race through his messages of reassurance and encouragement.
My father was the perfect supporter, somehow always knowing what was needed and quietly getting on with stuff.  During the race he was a man of action and kept me in good shape physically and mentally through constant food, advise and reassurance.  This really is a team event far more than most people probably realise watching on the live tracking and it was great to have such a perfect partner.
Last but not least I need to thank my wife and kids.  Competing in the X-Alps is in many ways a selfish endeavour, not least because the training sucked up most of my spare time for about 9 months before we even made it to the month of the race.  Their endless support, encouragement and sacrifice, even though it was hard for them, was of course key in getting me to the start line in the right frame of mind.  I'm sure I also provided a few opportunities for worry, apologies for that!!  I'm extremely lucky to have such a supportive family.

My sincere apologies if I've forgotten anyone, as I said more to come in the future on the race and our experiences.

The Last Post

Well the last post for a while as both Jon and I will have other priorities on our minds over the next couple of weeks but you can of course continue to follow all our exploits and those of the other competitors on www.redbullxalps.com including our diaries, and position.

So thanks for taking an interest in us so far and see you in Monaco.

Jon & Richard

Drug tests

I thought it was going to be a day of getting mundane things done.  The campsite this morning was full of teams sorting out their vans, doing washing and cutting toe nails.  All vitally important, but of course, rather mundane.

We went into Salzburg to check the first bit of the route out to the Gaisberg and bumped in Phillipe from FRA2 doing the same thing.  After our final bits of shopping we whizzed up the Gaisberg for a final check on the length of my speed system.  In two minutes I was airborne, checked it in the air, spiralled down to land and I was packed up in 6 mins, good for the fast packing/unpacking practise too!

Back in Fuschl we attended a medical briefing where we were informed all athletes would be tested for doping following WADA rules, and promptly lined up to give some blood.

That is about it for today.  Of to the dinner now!